Whatcha Doing? Or: Event Styles & You.
If you’re new to the world of living history, or just beginning to expand your event participation, you may run into some terminology regarding different types of activities. It can sometimes feel like a whole new dialect! Here’s a brief summary to get you started:
Mainstream: Let’s get this one out of the way first, because it has both indistinct and spurious connotations, and isn’t one you’re going to hear a lot these days, due to the “indistinct” problem. What it does have:
- Costumed participants, though there will not generally be a written set of material culture guidelines, and historically accuracy will vary widely with participants based on their knowledge and comfort level.
- Spectators, who will or will not expect interaction with costumed participants. Spectators may have to pay an entry fee, or not, depending on the event.
- Registration fees for participants, typically; these fees usually go to provide amenities like portalets (and hopefully, servicing!), potable water, sometimes even firewood.
- Registration is often by larger-club group registration, without accommodation for solo citizens or citizen-only groups.
- A variety of generic and specialty impressions, of varying degrees of research, as well as some who do not choose to undertake any impression or demonstration or interactions at all.
- Some standardized activities, such as 2-3 pre-planned military skirmishes each day, and things like a “ladies tea” or fashion show, and a dance (misnamed a “ball”) in the evening.
- “Mixed” camping settings are common, with families in military areas, and military roaming without period paperwork; there may or may not be any expectation of maintaining historical material culture in camping areas or foodways.
- No expectation of maintaining impressions or interpretive voice when public visitors are not present.
- Vendors often present; misnamed “Sutlers”, and found to have widely varying product accuracy, largely catering to spectators or participants who may not be concerned with historical accuracy.
In the 1990s, and into the new century, the term “mainstream” was sometimes used pejoratively to describe public events that did little to interpret accurate historical information. These events do still exist.
However, and gladly, there are many more options for historical events!
Timeline Events
- Open to the public, who may or may not pay an entry fee.
- Participants may pay a fee to cover site use, insurance, and amenities. Registration may be individual or by groups. There may or may not be written material culture expectations.
- Some specialty impressions, demonstrators, or presenters may receive a bounty, honorarium, or financial consideration for their participation.
- Individually-selected impressions, interactions, and demonstrations along a timeline of eras, either within a narrow time window (such as pre-1869 Western Emigration), or along an extensive span.
- Generally no over-arching event scenario, though there may be a theme to the event, such as showing homefront life, or celebrating a holiday through the eras; the overall theme unites the displays and interactions for the public.
- Most interpretive voices are acceptable (first, second, and third); public interaction is expected, and within scenario or impression groups, first-person interactions and short scenarios may be expected.
- Timeline events run the gamut of extremely accurate history, all the way down to “doing stuff that’s sorta loosely inspired by history in public.”
- Vendors may be present, but will generally be there to serve the needs of the visiting public and souvenir market, with some items for historical people; may or may not be juried.
- Related to timeline events are what I call “Smorgasbord” events: dealing within a specific and limited time-frame, but very open-ended as to styles of interaction, specifics of impression and demonstration, and material culture expectations. Smorgasbord events are ideal for “carpe eventum” situations, wherein a small group of like-minded folks coordinate an event-within-event with a first-person scenario for their own enjoyment and often for public education. The historical accuracy of such carpe eventum runs the gamut, dependent upon the specific small group.
Conferences & Conventions (& Retreats)
- Open to living history enthusiasts, academics, writers, makers, and the public
- Conferences with presentations and workshops will not generally have historical dress required (or even encouraged, when space is tight), though there may be some special costumed events as part of the conference schedule. Basically: if there’s a modern folding chair and powerpoint presentations, it’s a conference setting and modern clothing is going to be just fine.
- Conventions may have more scope for historical dressing, even when historical activities are not being done in the historical clothing. There’s an element of See And Be Seen to strolling a convention or exhibit hall, after all!
- Conferences and conventions will typically have a higher participation or entry fee, to cover the event expenses with a smaller number of participants. There may be extra workshops or experiences for which there is an additional cost.
- Vendors are often present; some events jury vendors (vetting for historical research and application, and specifying which wares an individual merchant can bring). Others do not jury vendors. If you know the standards of the organizers are high, and the vendor spaces are juried, conferences and conventions can be amazing places to view top-notch material culture and make really informed buying choices.
- Special events related to the experience can run the gamut from costumed historical activities (picnics, dancing, dining, garden or house tours, etc) to historic preservation efforts (modern clothing expected) and historic skills experiences (which may be a mixed bag for clothing–some modern, some historic.) Event organizers will generally be quite clear as to the expected clothing needs for different experiences at the event.
- Well-planned conferences and educational weekends are very clear on their offerings, the realities of the program and facilities, and whom the program target; most recognize that we are all beginners at something, and are designed to meet both entry-level and advanced interests.
- Smaller retreats are often sponsored by small groups of like-minded individuals who lead or bring in an instructor for a long weekend of learning and practical experience. These are typically modern settings, modern clothing, and no first person expected from participants–they are learning events, not interpretive events.
Semi-Immersion Events
- May or may not have a public attendance and interaction component; the visitors may or may not pay an entry fee.
- Participants usually expect to help cover costs (potable water, sanitation, shared food, shared event amenities). Registration is generally individual or by families, and will usually involve submitting photos and descriptions of individual impressions for approval well before the event.
- Semi-immersion events depend upon the participants’ mutual suspension of disbelief to overlook modern intrusions to the historical setting.
- Generally, first-person interpretive voice is expected when interacting with fellow participants and visitors.
- There may be limited to no “off-stage” areas or times; participants should expect to use accurate historical material culture and processes for all personal needs (exclusive of some things like keeping insulin at safe temperatures; these medical accommodations fall into the “be considerate and discreet” category).
- An over-arching event scenario unites all impressions and interactions; this scenario will require individuals to adapt their typical range of impressions to suit the interpretive needs of the event.
- Roles are often functional, serving the interpretive goals as well as the material needs of the participants. Active cooking and cleaning, hauling, harvesting, tool-mending, gardening, manufacture, and other life tasks are common.
- Semi-immersion events tend to have extensive pre-event planning and support, and can be a wonderful entry to history-heavy experiences for newer living history enthusiasts. The support of more experienced participants is extensive and… supportive.
- Vendor presence is not typical; some semi-immersion events have a separate area for food vendors for the visiting public, but it should not be in the historical area.
Immersion Events
- Typically individual registration is required, and fees go to cover shared amenities. Registration is generally limited and targeted at those who are known to enjoy and be skilled at full immersion.
- These events do not have a visible public visitor component, though they may be held in typically public spaces and require some willing suspension of disbelief to ignore modern intrusions, though usually, modern intrusions are deliberately eliminated or reduced as much as possible.
- No backstage or off-hours; participants maintain their impressions and personas round-the-clock. Medical accommodations are handled in the “considerate and discreet” manner of semi-immersion events.
- An over-arching scenario guides and molds all impressions and interactions; organizers may give individuals differing goals and motivations to help spark natural interactions through the event.
- Roles are almost always functional, serving the material needs of the participants and scenario. Impressions are carefully planned to create a coherent community for the event.
- Generally no vendor presence, unless in the form of an actual historical livelihood bartering or trading historical currency forms within the scope of the event scenario.
- Event scenarios, impression vetting, and research support is something that happens early and often.
- Immersion events are most often a once-off. While there may be a series of linked immersion events over time, it is not typical to do the same scenarios in each, and there may never be a repeat of the specific set-up.
Invitation Only
Here’s the way to get an invitation to an invitation-only event: contact the organizers and ask for an invitation. They’ll generally respond with extensive information and a request for descriptions and images of your impression, and will require the same from every participant.
Invitation Only doesn’t mean it’s an exclusionary event group; it simply means registration is highly individualized, and designed to create a very compatible and cohesive event community.
The Really Special Events
This is a whole ‘nother bag of cats related to immersion and invitation-only events, wherein a small group plans a first-person experience that involves historical settings and activities in as much of an historical way as possible.
These typically have higher individual registration costs, as they factor in shared rental of a historic property, catering, and experiences. There is not generally a public interaction or interpretive component, but first-person impressions are normal and sustained.
Event framework might involve hiking and recreation, travel, community-building, crisis experiences, or other fairly deep “experiment in history” components, which then inform the individual’s future interpretive communication.
Pre-event research and support are common.
Even if the event is repeated, the activities, mix of personalities, and details will generally change each time, to keep it fresh and interesting.
Summing Up
When it comes right down to it, no one style is the be-all, end-all of event structure! What matters is whether or not the event has clarity about itself, and whether that structure is something that sounds like your idea of fun.
If you love demonstrating a craft or art, but don’t like play-acting, then timeline and smorgasbord events are a fantastic fit for you!
If you like to “live in the past” and don’t want to deal with communicating in sound-bites to the public, immersion and small “boutique” events are more your game.
If you don’t much want to do public interaction or first-person with others, but you love learning about the past, a wide array of educational conferences, conventions, and retreats is right up your alley.
Get clarity about the sorts of things you call “fun”, find events that share that clarity, and dive into your own history!
Getting Better: A Short, Encouraging Rant.
by George P A Healy, MET collection
When it comes to replicating mid-19th century items for living history use, the closer we can get to the original, the better.
But sometimes, we hit a wall. We’re doing… okay. But the stuff we’re making isn’t quite cutting it. We might look like a reenactor, versus one of The Original Cast (and yes, I’m still regretting introducing The Original Cast as a term about a decade back, but I still find it highly useful, so I’m still using it.)
How do we break through, get over, or just tear down that wall?
Surprising no one, I have some thoughts.
Look at Stuff
… and by Stuff, I mean Original Stuff. Thousands of items are being shared in on-line archives daily. Do some digging in local historical archives, regional museums, private collections, on-line collections, antique guides, and other real resources, and really look at them. Are you seeing what you once thought you saw? Or has your eye been slowly refined by casual looking, and now you’re seeing more? Take notes.
Don’t Look at Stuff
… other repro stuff, I mean. There are some amazing replicators out there. I’m pleased to be friends with a whole stack of them. But if you’re copying somone’s modern repro project, you’re going to end up with a copy of a copy, and the more times it’s been copied, the more risk you run of getting make-believe, versus history. So be inspired, perhaps, but don’t copy. Look carefully to see where the replication and the original are twins, and where a repro items perhaps fails. Take notes.
Retrench
Take a bit and reexamine what you have and what you do. Are the elements of your impression truly harmonizing, or do you have an atypical stinker wrecking things up? Have you been skating by doing so-so, half-done semi-historic techniques? Now’s a great time to learn or refine something.
Perhaps you need to get really comfortable with making and applying fine piping: just do it! Perhaps you need to learn to really find your waist: just do it! If it means you end up taking apart and refining existing projects, awesome! (Caveat: so long as the fabric is a really spot-on one for your era. Don’t waste time on poor fabric choices.)
Sometimes, we get poor results just because we’re skating on some basics, like pressing a project as we sew, or paying attention to period grain placement when we cut, or skipping making a test bodice, or testing trim scales. Slow down a speck. Take the steps. Pay attention. Be tidy as you work. Press things. Make the muslin. Press the muslin, too. All the small habits really do add up to a more successful finished project.
Get Comfortable
… with a bit of historically-accurate tedium. You can spend your time fussing over the miserable slog of sewing on hooks, or hemming by hand, or hand-gathering, or any of the hundred mundane tasks of replication… or you can find your little zen pocket of the universe, and settle in to make the most of the time.
Simply choosing to add a pleasant aspect to a mundane task–like listening to period music, or “watching” a costume drama while you work, or taking your work to the sunniest spot in front of the window, with a fragrant cup of tea by your side–along with a determined attitude and a reasonable pace of work, can have a profound effect on the quality of your finished items, and a decrease in blasphemy, profanity, vulgarity, and general rage with which you may have previously approached your least-favorite tasks.
Sometimes, the mere swapping-about of the work process can help! For me, I make and prep my skirts first, directly after cutting everything. Seams done, hem in, balanced and gathered, gauged, or pleated, ready to go—it’s a psychologically easy start for me. Then I prefer to focus on doing up my sleeves–since I can baste those into my muslin to test them, because YES, I MADE THE MUSLIN. Once the sleeves are truly sewn and finished, they get neatly folded on top of the tidily-folded skirts, and I start my bodice. Projects where I’ve started the bodice first? OH LANGUISHMENT. OH WOE. OH TEDIUM.
If your sewing process has been a drag on your work, consider switching it up and finding a new comfortable work order!
Get Uncomfortable
Learn to use your thimble. Seriously.
But beyond that, get out of your project comfort zone! If you do mostly sewing, try another period handwork–knit something very badly. Paint a few horrific watercolors. Embroider something terrible. Build a rickety shelf with handtools. Make lumpy cream gravy. Learn a period ballad and caterwaul in the car.
Stepping outside of your normal project range to experience other aspects of mid-century life can refresh the soul, and bring new depth and context to every avenue of living history!
Read Stuff
Read any primary sources, and good secondary resources, that you can get your eyeballs on. Whether it’s a period novel, science treatise, travel story, missions report, newspaper, or business directory, you’ll gain context. Read What The Original Cast Read.
Don’t Read Stuff
… but don’t get too caught up in the politics of modern hobby chat on-line, or you risk getting bogged down in all that mire, or getting used to seeing fairly mediocre work praised instead of examined, or any of a number of distraction and misinformation risks we are all prone to. On-line lists and such have their place! I adore them! Just be wary of the echo chambers, and think sensibly about the information you find. Evaluate, critique, search, and make up your own mind: is what you’re hearing and reading consistent with The Original Cast stuff you’ve also been reading?
Set Ambitious Goals
If you’re used to doing modern double-layer collars, set a goal to make a fine-hemmed single-layer batiste collar, and maybe edge it with really good lace. Choose one technique to focus on with your next project, and take some notes on the learning process. Learn to use teensy double-points to knit something. Look at budget-friendly ways to set aside money for the Really Good Bonnet, or the Really Historic Glasses. Set a goal that pushes you, and work in small increments to get there.
Celebrate Small
Take the time to notice and be pleased with your progress. What may not seem celebratory to others might be a very big small deal to you! It is very encouraging to pull out something, on which you’ve done your best, and notice afresh how much care you put into improving your pressing skills or buttonholes or tidy button stitching that isn’t knobby with drool-covered knots… your upgrades matter. Celebrate them! (And if you come across something you can now improve, go ahead and do that! It’s Quite Reasonable to snip off all your buttons and re-stitch them with the better techniques you know now, or pull off a mangled patch and re-do a mend in a more period manner!)
What will you improve this year?
A Sweet GAM Dolly Sets
In meandering about the internet today, I came across this very lovely post regarding Great Auntie Maude’s Favorite Cloth Doll, and thought to share it with all of you lovely readers!
Click Through for Sew Decades Ago’s photo-laden post–she did a charming job on the whole set! Mother-daughter doll projects are such a great way to connect with your favorite girl.
And if you’re ready to make some sweet history dolls for yourself, like I did in advance of our 24 July Pioneer Night event (photo of four cloth girls and one cloth lady to your left–yes, I made four new dolls and dressed three new dolls in about 6 hours, because I am a crazy person), hit our Dolls section for both shipped and downloadable doll options (downloadable Lady Doll should be available very soon!)
Hunt Hill WI Retreat Registration!
Two years ago, we partnered with the Living History Society of Minnesota (LHSMN) to bring about a wonderful working weekend at Hunt Hill, Wisconsin. This year, we’re doing it again! You’ll find all the details and registration links by clicking through.
Suggestions on Lending from Godey’s
From Godey’s, October 1862, we glean this delightful bit, contributed by an anonymous member of the reading public from Illinois:
We wish all our exchanges and subscribers were of the opinion expressed in the following lines:–
What, borrow! and the Lady’s Book!
You do not mean it, really;
Godey would stare with frownful look,
And censure us severely.
Scarce any wish would we deny;
(Before asked, you knew it)
But as to lending Godey, why,
We cannot, WILL NOT do it.
Save your loose pocket money;
Wash your husband’s shirts and collars;
Cut down expenses–cut no dash,
Till you’ve amassed Three Dollars.
Then, with a conscious dignity–
Unlike a begging toady–
Remit your honest dollars three,
And pay for your OWN Godey!
Corsets & Cravats 2018: Don’t Miss This!
Image courtesy of Corsets & Cravats
I’m sitting down today with Dannielle Perry, one of the masterminds behind Corsets & Cravats, a new regional conference with some great national-level presenters, about the upcoming even in Newberry, South Carolina.
Dannielle, what made you decide to develop a new educational opportunity in South Carolina?
In the summer of 2016, I taught a workshop for the Greenville Ladies Aid Society at the home of Rose Favors in Newberry, South Carolina. At one point during the weekend, Rose mentioned a historic hotel and the possibility of bringing some vendors to the town.
The next spring, Kara Bocek of Corner Clothiers and I attended the DAR Agreeable Tyrant Symposium. The quality of the presentations was amazing. After listening to lectures on things like the weave of the fabric of George Washington’s inaugural suit, we got excited. We wanted to host a heavily research-based event. We wanted an opportunity to showcase both established and up and coming researchers. Kara and I had been to the Genteel Arts Symposium in Harrisburg, but there wasn’t anything like that further south.
I reached out to Rose Favors and Ann Maddox of the Greenville Ladies Aid Society in South Carolina and they were throwing around the same ideas. The four of us met and Corsets & Cravats was born.
Looking at the mix of workshops and presentations, this is not just clothing; there’s a great mix of material culture and “internal” culture. Music, literature, technology, religion; I get the sense that there’s a push to develop the whole context of the era. Can you tell me a bit more about the goals for the conference, and how you hope to develop it going forward?
People tend to over-simplify historic figures and eras. Behaviors are not singularly-motivated today or were they in the 19th century. I am a mother, a teacher, a milliner, a business owner, and a wife. My personal actions and behaviors are not solely influenced by the evening news. Political and military events do and did affect how people behave, but there is so much more to daily life than that.
Understanding mid-19th century culture helps people realize that Americans then were not so different than we are today. Studying denominations and religious practices helps us to understand the importance of God and worship to the average 19th century American. A study of popular literature can give us a glimpse into day to day life and the issues and concerns of people of the day.
Some topics are easier to understand than others. Our cultural sensitivity class will help interpreters deal with sensitive issues like race relations and the institution of slavery. A great place to start on any of these topics is research. We are offering a class on that too. In short, our goal is to improve the cultural knowledge of attendees to better interpret history.
Moving forward, we plan to expand beyond the opera house to the adjacent conference center to allow for more classes, attendees, and vendors. We are already making plans for 2019, so stay tuned.
Will there be a focus on the Southeast, or can those from any area of the country attend and absorb some new resources?
Our focus is popular and material culture in America. We are not regionally focused or limiting ourselves to regional topics. Information should be relevant to mid-19th century interpretation throughout the United States and Canada.
I happen to be a singer myself, so the musical workshop with actual performance included is particularly exciting. Developing living history skills to include appropriate music has so much potential in every setting and event! Is there a workshop that you’re particularly excited about attending?
Kara and I came up with topics and then invited instructors, so all of them. I honestly wish I could take every single class.
I am excited to be accompanying Colleen for the music class. Samantha Bullat (McCarty) is teaching a padding workshop to help us make our clothes fit the way they should. Sarah Hermann is examining genre paintings to find all the little things like baskets, food, utensils, and even the types of livestock that make living history scenes more authentic. Carolann Schmitt and Mackenzie Anderson Scholtz are each teaching classes that work together to give us the full picture of the underpinnings that create the correct shape for the Mid-19th century clothing.
These workshops and presentations don’t seem to be limited to the very narrow Civil War years, but rather, cover a more rounded lifetime of experiences leading up to the war. What made you look to that expanded context (which I adore, by the way!)?
People are not dropped from space into a four-year period. People had lives before and after the Civil War. They had hobbies and jobs just like we do. Many people did not know specific troop movements, but they did know about day to day life.
To have a convincing impression, we need to have a knowledge of mid-19th century cultural history. What songs would we sing, what books would be reading, how and how often would we worship, etc. are all things that we should be familiar with to properly interpret the 19th century.
We also hope to expand our reach beyond Civil War reenactors to living historians and historical interpreters who interpret and study more than just 1861 to 1865.
I also notice a concentration on really honing impressions to our individual needs, from the working classes on up, with things accessible to both urban and rural life. If I’m new to creating a first-person impression, or in the middle of revamping old knowledge, where should I start?
A lot of newbies ask me where to start. I tell them it is a process. A great place to start is activities that you enjoy in the modern world and expand from there. I started to participate in living history in the mid-1990s. I love music, so a purchased a melodeon and started researching period music. I learned what I should and shouldn’t be singing/playing. I learned to sew because I couldn’t afford to purchase the clothing I wanted to wear. I learned that I was pretty good at fabric arts, so I expanded my sewing to quilting, knitting, and even spinning.
I try to have one new thing for each event. It doesn’t have to be something you can touch. It can be something you have studied. Improve a little at each event and you will be amazed and how you learn, grow, and change.
I noticed some workshops are already sold out; what’s the deadline for registering? When will pre-registration for 2019 open?
The deadline for registering is July 15, 2018. However, we only have a few spots available and registration will close when it is full.
As you mentioned, many of the classes are already full and many only have one or two spots left. We kept class sizes from 15 to 20 people based on the subject matter and the size of the classroom. We wanted participants to be able to feel comfortable interacting with instructors and each other. We feel small class sizes contributes to meeting that goal. We are calling them classes rather than workshops because so often participants leave workshops with UFOs (unfinished objects) that take forever to finish. We wanted attendees to learn skills rather than walk away with half made objects.
Pre-registration for 2019 will open shortly after the Corsets & Cravats 2018 weekend. However, this will be a hold my spot only as we haven’t lined up all of our teachers for 2019 at this point. Some speaker class ideas for next year include heirloom gardens, naturalists, humor, and what it means to be middle class.
Is this a conference best suited for those who are more experienced with living history, or are “newbies” going to fit in well? How much experience do I need to have before attending?
You don’t need experience to attend. We have attendees who are new to living history and we have people who have been participating for decades. We have had interest from other costuming communities beyond living history. We are open to all who are willing to learn.
A quick peek at the vendors shows a well-curated group of merchants. Will the juried vendor space be open to the general public, or reserved for conference attendees?
As a vendor, this is a topic close to my heart. Being a vendor is a job not a hobby. Vendors work for weeks before an event producing, and preparing stock geared toward a specific event. We spend years and thousands of dollars researching the items we reproduce. Vendors need to not only meet expenses but make money to make the time and effort they have made to attend an event worthwhile.
The vendors will be open to attendees and the general public. The best time for the public to visit will be Saturday morning. Weekend attendees will have adequate shopping time throughout the weekend. We want to give our vendors the best opportunities possible to have a profitable weekend, so they will come back.
The overall conference cost is only $165, and that includes up to five workshops on two days and the Saturday presentations; tell me a bit more about the special events connected with the conference?
Beyond classes and presentations, weekend attendees are invited to attend a Friday night sociable, Saturday night entertainment, and Sunday morning church services. Our theme for Friday night is “What? This old thing? It was just hanging in my closet.” Attendees can wear any impression from 1830s to 1870s and will be given a chance to explain the outfit and give documentation. We will also have tours of the opera house and refreshments provided by the Greenville Ladies Aid Society.
Saturday night at 8:45 the Joyful Harps will entertain us on the opera house main stage. Sunday morning, Reverend Brantley will lead us in worship at the opera house.
For an additional fee, we are offering Tea on Friday, and Supper on Saturday. Tea will be hosted by Reverend and Mrs. John Taylor Brantley at a local tea house. Unfortunately, the tea is already sold out. Saturday evening, we have a period inspired supper at the community hall adjacent to the opera house with local SC foods. There are still spots available for supper.
Do I need to be in period dress the whole time?
No. You don’t have to dress out at all if you don’t want to. Period is dress is encouraged for tea, Friday night, and Saturday evening. We feel participants will be more comfortable during classes in modern clothing.
I see there is a period photographer; I love having a plate made as a truly unique souvenir of an experience! Looking at the photography page, there are a lot of options to suit my budget, with size, optional prints, and optional framing. How do I reserve time, and what should I expect of the experience? Could I have a wetplate done in modern clothes, or must I be in period clothing?
We are excited to have Harrington Traveling Photographic Artists joining us for the weekend. Their work is phenomenal. The Harrington’s made a ruby ambrotype of my family in a picnic scene at the Maryland, My Maryland event in 2012.
Most collodion artists only do ferrotypes, but Todd and Vivian make ambrotypes, ferrotypes, and carte de visite.
You may have wetplate done in period or modern clothes. In fact, many Newberry locals plan to come have their image struck. To make a reservation email admin@corsetsandcravats.com.
I’ve not been to Newberry SC before; what should I plan to do or see while I’m there for the conference? With independent lunch windows, where should I plan to eat? Any local specialties I shouldn’t miss?
I got help with this one. Rose is our local Newberrian. She is compiling a huge list of things to do and see in Newberry and all of South Carolina. She is not quite done with the big list, but here is an abridged version.
Where to eat? There are several places within walking distance of the opera house. For a sit-down lunch, try Figaro or Cabana. Figaro’s Chef John Worthington has promised to make some special fare for C&C attendees. Figaro market has to go lunches. There is also an ice cream shop called The Corner Scoop which has sandwiches too.
What to do? There are lots of great shops and boutiques in downtown Newberry. Two great antique shops are As Time Goes by and Eurolux. For history lovers, Rose Hill Plantation and Hampton-Preston house within a reasonable drive from Newberry. The town also has an internationally acclaimed nursery known for its orchids.
What top three bits of advice would you give to any attendee?
1. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Your instructors are happy to help you.
2. Let us know if there is something we can improve. We do not know if there is a problem unless you tell us.
3. Relax and have fun.
There you have it, everyone!
For complete information on the new Corsets & Cravats educational conference in Newberry SC, August 3-5 2018, please click through to www.corsetsandcravats.com. Register ASAP to claim one of the few remaining spots! It’s sure to be a fantastic experience for all!
Mahaffie Sunbonnet Sewing Review
Only a few weeks after we debuted the new free sunbonnet pattern, made possible by the lovely folks at Mahaffie Stage Stop and Historic Farm, one of our lovely Sewing Academy readers and long-time Forum member, Betsy Connolly Watkins, has completed her very own, and was very happily willing to share the experience with all of us!
You can read her post, and see how charming the results are, right here.
And, for the record, I agree with all of her comments! This is not the very-very-simple style suited for very new historical sewists. It is not hard, but it does have multiple steps that may feel unfamiliar even to someone with the years of historical sewing experience those like Betsy have.
The process of back-engineering the original in the Mahaffie collection was a lot of fun for me, simply because of the interesting order one needs to take to replicate the results of the original. It was a series of “OH! So then… no, but first.. oh, and then… nope, this other…” I spent a good two hours muttering to myself in delight, sketching, and measuring. And then even more hours thinking through it all, and turn it into a step-by-step project and test out the sequence.
While you could make a Mahaffie-style sunbonnet in any sunbonnet-appropriate textile, I really love that Betsy used a woven check very similar to the original extant bonnet. The checks show off so wonderfully in this style, as would any linear-design fabric. This is one style that really needs the smaller, linear motif to show off best; a larger print, or a non-linear floral would not have such distinctly charming arrangements in the bias-cut frill, and in the seaming/piping of the front/back bonnet sections.
Excellent work, Mrs Watkins! May you wear it happy, deeply shaded, and in excellent health!
“Is That Real”: Or, Why You’re Not Allowed To Tater-Snark
Tater-snark: Verb. A portmanteau derived from “Spectator” (noun; visitor or observer) and “Snark” (adjective; synonyms include sarcasm, ridicule). To respond in an annoyed or snarky way to questions from visitors or spectators (or their charming tater-tots) who ask questions such as:
“Is that fire real?”
“Is that food real?”
“Is that baby real?”
“Are you hot in that?”
Yes, you’ve probably heard one of these questions, or a variant thereof, a full one-hundred times in a single day.
Yes, on the surface, these questions can seem “silly.”
And No, you’re not allowed to pitch a fit over any of it. If you’re tending toward yet another round of tater-snarking, either in-real-life or on-line, please reconsider doing public-facing events. Ever.
Here’s why, in a fairly compact but firmly-meant tirade:
It’s just rude in any century.
And rude = unproductive interaction, with high level risk of damage.
Why, when presented with an opportunity to share something we love with people who aren’t as experienced in it, would we risk turning them away empty-handed just because they didn’t ask a question in the precise wording we’d prefer?
It’s our burden, not the visitor’s.
Loads of “history people” ramble on and on about being “in this for public education” to “educate the public” since our society is so woefully ignorant of history.
That very statement should warn us that we’ll run into a lot of visitors who don’t have context for our specific era, the habits and practices and society of it all. Why should they have? It’s not their particular passion. They have no obligation to come to a history presentation, event, program, or demo with grand fore-knowledge and a master’s-thesis-level understanding of what we’re sharing.
We do.
It’s our chosen hobby/work/calling. It’s our job to share context and information effectively. It’s none of their burden at all, and we’re being foolish if we expect it to be.
If I’m not willing to educate with kindness, consideration, and accurate information, then I need to stop spouting “educating the public” as a goal, and stick with events that are private, no public in attendance.
Every question is an attempt to connect.
Connection = Awesomes.
So let’s re-think the purpose of the question before we are tempted to Tater-snark.
How many times are people presented with fiction and make-believe instead of accurate history? Every time they encounter someone who “hides” a camping cooler under a canvas “box” cover, they get make-believe, not history. Every time someone sees a galvanized tin beverage dispenser on a side-board under a canvas fly in front of a wall tent full of altered 1970s furniture, they get make-believe, not history.
People aren’t asking if that set of items is physically present in this plane of existence.
They’re asking us to share the truth, reassure them that they’re seeing history, not make-believe, and provide some greater context. Let’s answer the unspoken question, not ridicule their attempt to connect!
“Is that a real fire?”: Is that fire made with wood that would have been available here at the time? How did you get it started? Would someone stepping out of a time machine recognize this style of fire as a valid one for the era, and for the use?
“Is that real food?”: Is it seasonal and accurate to the era? How would a person in the past have gotten it? Will it taste the same as it did then? Is it safe to eat right now? Are you preparing it in a manner consistent with history? Are the tools and implements and pots just like what they’d have used in the past?
“Is that a real baby?”: Is it actually a tiny human, or a well-done doll? Are the clothes right for the history era? What about the toys? Did kids really play like that? How can I get hold of the same sorts of things? Are the games fun? How did they feed babies? Why do boys wear dresses? How do the cloth diapers work? Is it gross?
“Aren’t you hot in that?”: How do your clothes work? Are you too warm? Is it safe to wear all that? I’m hot in a tank and shorts–how are you not dead? Was their climate exactly the same as ours? Can I bring you some water? Where do you get your water? Where did they get their clothes? Did they have machines to help? Why is your clothing colorful? What do your clothes say about your life? Really, are you too hot in that?
If I can’t exercise just a tiny bit of creativity to answer the unspoken questions, and fulfill that individual’s attempt at and need for connection with me, a “person of the past”, then I have zero business at events or programs that have a public component.
Even if it’s the fortieth time I’ve heard the question in 15 minutes.
Answering those questions–the real questions behind the questions–that’s my job. It’s my responsibility. If I ever decide I don’t like doing it, then I need to find another style of event that doesn’t include people who ask those questions. Full stop.
Connection = Awesomes.
Tater-snarking is rude, unproductive, and closes off opportunities to connect.
So stop it.
The end.
Embroidery Stitch Tutorials
Sometimes, a video tutorial really helps!
Mary Corbett’s Needle N’ Thread has just such tutorials, for free…
Of course, not every tutorial presented is appropriate for mid-century use. Take a look at
- Running stitch
- Whipped running stitch
- Backstitch
- Whipped backstitch
- Stem stitch
- Portuguese knotted stem stitch
- Outline stitch
- Split stitch
- Herringbone stitch (especially useful for fastening down seam allowances on wool petticoats and drawers!)
- Chain stitch
- Feather stitch
- Double feather stitch
- Blanket stitch (or the buttonhole variation for scalloped edgings)
- Seed stitch (seeding stitch, in period manuals)
- Padded satin stitch
Choosing Your Maker
Some questions from newer folk lately have sparked my own ruminations, and I thought it was about time to do a Part The Second to an older post about Why Things Cost Money.
Hiring sewing work done is a 100% historically accurate thing to do! In the mid-19th century, regular working class women (and certainly middle class and higher) did not do every stitch of their own sewing (unless need or preference required it.) Hiring a sewist for all of the work, or part of the work, is entirely bog-common.
(For some fun reading, check out Carrie Williams’ diary detailing her at-home work, found in “So Much To Be Done“, edited by Ruth Moynihan. Awesome book. And Carrie is just tremendously personable.)
(That link to the book is strictly courtesy; I don’t have affiliate linking. Probably ought to look into that? But when I share a link, you can be confident it’s done from admiration, not pecuniary consideration.) (Also, you can get hardbacks for under $8 and paperbacks for under $6, including shipping. This is an *awesome* book and you should probably just order a copy.)
So, when hiring sewing work done in the form of purchasing a finished wardrobe item, what are some things to keep in mind?
Recommendations
Asking others for their preferred makers for X item is a great way to refine the vast options you might find in a Google search. You can usually get honest assessments and tips, too. But beware of blanket endorsements. No individual is “The Best” at every single aspect of mid-century wardrobes and material culture, and their quality may change over time.
I get uncomfortable if someone recommends me with “Liz is awesome at EVERYTHING! She’ll set you right up!”—because frankly, I’m *not* awesome at everything. I have good dressmaking and fitting skills. I can do some pretty amazing things. But I’m not my first choice for drafting a tailored men’s frock, or building a straw bonnet. I’m still learning in those areas, and won’t do them for other people until I’m a lot further along!
Asking others for recommendations can lead you to lesser-known makers who don’t advertise widely, and that can be an absolute treasure! Many makers keep their client list small for excellent reasons, and a personal introduction to one of these private makers can bless your historical work for decades to come.
Take a close look at the standards of the person doing the recommendation. Not everyone has the same goals and baseline as you. If you want your own standards met, you’ll need to get recommendations from those who share that standard. If you want to upgrade, look for notes from those whose living history impressions make you envious along historical accuracy lines. If your goal is to look like you stepped out of the past, don’t heed recommendations from people who look like they stepped out of the Gunsmoke Extras Cabinet.
Take a close look at a maker’s *current* work. It’s a simple fact of humanity that sometimes quality goes downhill over time, through aging or hiring out work or infirmity or laxity or sheer boredom or lack of research application. There are some makers who were considered top-notch ten years ago–but whom I cannot recommend now, because they’ve taken too many shortcuts, produced poor results, and similar frustrating situations. I don’t exempt myself from the push to Keep Improving… that’s half the fun of providing resources! Keeping up a good standard, and pushing the envelope both keep me engaged as a maker. Look for someone with the same engagement!
Visual Comparison
Even with a positive recommendation to an engaged maker, know what you’re looking at before committing to a purchase. I’m always better impressed with a maker when they show me original/extant items side-by-side with their repro piece, and they compare very, very closely.
By “closely”, I’m looking for something that’d be identical, but for a patina of age (our repro items should be appropriately aged for the use they’d have in our target year, which is generally Not Much Aging). I’m looking for the same proportions as the original. I’m looking for the same materials, manipulated the same way. I’m looking for compatibility in internal and external construction techniques. Even if something is a composite reproduction, incorporating features from multiple extant pieces, I want to see the pieces replicated closely, and with consideration and coherent logic.
There are many things that can bump a maker off my list on the visual comparison component. Using modern saris (because they often have charming border print styles) for 1850s border print tiered dresses is rarely successful. While they’re both involving border print elements, modern saris aren’t made in mid-19th century print motifs. And since my criterion is “match it closely”, that’s going to fail for me, and I’ll use a different maker. I’m always going to have the key elements of mid-century fabric styles in my mind; if an otherwise-well-made dress fails at fabric style, that’s sadly going to be off my list… and I’ll probably look very carefully before buying other items from the same maker, since we may have a fundamental priority mis-match.
Critical Questions
It is always appropriate to ask a maker questions.
I’m not talking about asking them to give away their favorite fabric sources, or to give you free lessons in how they make things. Those are professional resources that you should expect to pay for, and even then, they may not be for sale.
I’m talking about questions like, “Can you tell me about the interior construction? What features does this item have, and are they commonly supported in original primary sources? Can you point me toward some of the references you’ve used?”
If you’re asking for references, expect them to be able to refer to two or three in the public sphere. Sometimes people hide behind “in private collection”, then do atypical things, and never will divulge even a single image of their proprietary sourcing. I tend to feel (and this is maybe harsh, but it’s realistic) that this “only private sources no one can look at” attitude is pretty iffy, and even when I’ve got a lot of proprietary sources in my stash of info, I’ll want to make sure there are several readily accessible to the public, to which I can point them for their own inquiry.
Another critical question to ask yourself, and your possible maker, is “Does this item really support my historic goals?” A top-notch maker will want to know your interpretive needs and activity needs, as well as personal preferences, so they can hone in on the specific range of work they provide that best suits your actual needs. They’ll even try to talk you out of buying something from them if it’s not right for you goals.
Beware a maker who tries to justify selling you something they have on hand, versus what would be truly right for your needs. “It’s here” is not a valid purchase reason if the item doesn’t meet your need criteria!
Budget Considerations
Consider that just about half of anything you pay to a maker is immediately eaten up with taxes and business expenses burdening the small proprietor. The other half buys supplies to make the item you want, keeps the lights on, and buys the pizza and ramen and avocado toast. If a maker meets your needs for the Big Three Considerations above, don’t give them grief about charging skilled rates for the labor you’re asking of them. If you need to save up for the purchase, do so.
I recommend getting a reloadable pre-paid debit card, and squirreling funds onto that card as often as possible. A few dollars here and there will net you a neat nest egg toward useful purchases, and you can use it on-line very easily, as well as in person.
Here’s to the Makers! They make specialty hobbies a whole lot easier!
A New Sunbonnet in the Compendium!
During workshops in Olathe, Kansas this February, I was pleased to be allowed to study an original slatted sunbonnet in the Mahaffie Stage Stop & Historic Farm collection… and then even more pleased when this lovely historic site granted generous permission to share it with all the Sewing Academy readers!
It’s a charming, everyday sunbonnet in a small woven check, with multiple tones of warm cream to honey-brown, with a delicate single-layer bias frill all the way around. A very clever shape for fabric-conscious cutting, plus a great detail in how the back neckline fullness is handled, will make this one sunbonnet you’ll want to recreate.
It’s a style appropriate to any working class impression, and up into the middle classes in casual outdoor settings where fashion is less important than sun protection. Made a bit smaller, it’s a lovely style on young girls. Made in a very delicate fabric, it might become your very best bonnet!
Click the image to access my study notes and project suggestions in PDF.
You’ll find it in a permanent spot in the Compendium, as well (scroll down to the women’s projects).
Please keep in mind that Mahaffie Stage Stop & Historic Farm has been very kind to allow us to share this project; it is shared with the intention of use for personal historical dressing, and historical education use, and is not licensed for use in making items that will be sold.
Additionally, all diagrams and illustrations, as well as the instructions and study notes, are covered under my own copyright, and may not be re-hosted or republished without permission (just email me and ask, if you have any questions at all!) If you’d like to share the sunbonnet project, the easiest way is to link to it here, as we may publish correction, updates, or additional notes, and a direct link will allow you to access the most current authorized version.
Basically: be the lovely, considerate Sewing Academy Reader that Great Auntie Maude knows you to be! And do send us snapshots of yourself in your new Mahaffie Collection Sunbonnet!
Dressing Girls Sew-Along: Petticoats, or Making A Mend
In the Petticoat Evaluation post, I discovered a petticoat I’d made for our oldest years ago that just needed a bit of repair and button movement to make it suited for our youngest this season. Said youngest has actually been using the petticoat for generalized dress-up for about a year, and there is visible damage from her tenure. I’ll definitely need to “make a-mends” to get this petticoat into shape!
Mending is a grand use of my time. With just a single 20-minute sewing session, I’ll restore an entire petticoat to hardy use, saving myself a few hours and several yards of cloth to make a full new one.
Mending is also a very common mid-century practice, and to get a great fix, I can use two different options.
I could darn the ripped area, using stitches to draw the edges back together and make a new, small-scale weave to strengthen the area. When done well, this is very nearly invisible, and quite strong.
However, my youngest is a very active girl, and I anticipate a lot of rough wear on her petticoats! Another period mending choice is to patch under the area. This will give me a fresh piece of fabric stabilizing the ripped area, and the whole thing will take heavy laundering without a hitch.
This is the rip; it’s on-grain, vertically (I have no idea how she managed this, but a tree and climbing were likely involved). There is a second small rip not far from it.
You can see that the edges are a little shredded from being laundered a few times before mending, but not too badly. I’ll definitely want to “make a-mends” before any further laundering, or this rip will grow!
I don’t need to match the fabric exactly; I can get into my scraps for a 3×2″ piece of basic white cotton. This is a very utilitarian item, and since our interpretive needs are working class and western emigration, a tiny bit of visibility can actually be a great interpretive point for us!
With a bit of steam and a hot iron, I pressed each edge of the patch to the wrong side.
Using pair of small, sharp scissors, I cleaned up the edges of the rip, and pressed those to the wrong side very gently. (The picture was taken just before I clipped out those long threads in the middle of the rip.)
Laying the patch on the inside of the petticoat, a quick felling stitch attached the pressed outer edges to the body of the petticoat.
You can see the short stitch perpendicular to the edge of the patch in the photo to the left.
The needle and thread move diagonally up to the next stitching position, so on the inside of the patch, there are short perpendicular stitches over the patch edge, and on the outside of the petticoat, there are tiny diagonal stitches outlining the patch position.
Another round of felling secured the tucked-under edges of the rip to the underlying patch. I used the point of the needle to “sweep” the raw edge under just a bit, which turns a long, gapped slit into a slender oblong with finished edges.
All done!
Now the petticoat is ready for a nice long soak to remove old stains, and a good line-dry (with the help of friendly hens, of course!)
A good starch and press, and re-positioning the button to sit more securely at her waist, and this petticoat is ready for action for one more year!
Mr Sullivan, Lilly, and Me: A 19th Century Fan-Girl Moment
Lilly Martin Spencer Selfie about 1848
One of my all-time favorite genre artists of the mid-19th century is Lilly Martin Spencer, the England-born daughter of French immigrants to Marietta, Ohio. Lilly (Angelique Marie) was eight when she arrived in America (New York), and about eleven when the family moved to Ohio in 1833. She was educated at home by her parents, and spent many hours of her formative years immersed in art, presenting her first solo exhibition in August of 1841.
She married in August 1844; her husband gave up his tailoring profession and instead supported his young wife in her art career and through his own domestic work at home. She would give birth to 13 children, 7 of whom survived to adulthood, without significant diversion from her art career, though the family was never terribly wealthy, and maintained gardens and a home-flock of hens to make the budget work.
Her paintings have a certain good humor to them, and her skill with emotion in her brushwork is absolutely fascinating! Painting mostly domestic scenes of everyday life, her work is also highly realistic (some criticism of variable skill as to precise noggin-sizing is valid in a few pieces), and becomes a gorgeous way to research home interiors, tools, furnishings, clothing, hairstyles, and how everything combines in “average” US households at mid-century.
And basically, I just really love her work.
So, rewind just a bit to late March 2018, when I was a presenter at the second annual Citizens Forum conference in Monroe, Michigan, and met up with an old friend, Bob Sullivan of Sullivan Press. Go click through to his site. I’ll wait while you explore a bit.
Mr Sullivan does a cool thing: he reproduces paper stuff for the mid-19th century, and he doesn’t limit himself to military minutia. One of his major lines is the reproduction of Beadle’s Dime Everythings… fiction as well as the useful non-fiction publications that not only add to any mid-century impression, but also inform the impression along the way! And because he puts painstaking effort into the physical elements of each item, you can have his goods out in historical settings and they look RIGHT, without the additional patina of age an original would have, and without risk to original paper in an interpretive setting, too. Reasonably priced at $10-$12 for Dime Guides and reprinted magazines, he’s a resource for anyone with a yen to read original publications in historical or modern settings. It’s kind of awesome.
Several of us stayed in the same hotel for the conference, and Thursday night, we bumped into Mr Sullivan during check-in. He said he had something he thought I’d enjoy seeing, so we met up a bit later and I had two very fun moments: one a Nerd-Girl Tech Moment, and the other a Lilly Martin Spencer Fan-Girl Moment, and both of them were highlights of my day!
Nerd-Girl Tech Moment
Original magazines were published with covers in the same paper as the contents, with the intent that subscribers and readers could have their issues bound into volumes if they liked. Some individuals put together homemade portfolio-style bindings (another friend shared a youth newspaper in a home-bound portfolio later that weekend, and that was awesome as well). Some had them bound at the book-binders.
But, ever the clever ones, the Original Cast had additional options, including the Emerson Binder, and didn’t Mr Sullivan have a year’s volumes of The Home magazine, still in their Emerson Binder? What a treat! Though the hinges that attach the steel strips have failed in the intervening 150 years, the overall structure is still visible, and it made my office-supply-loving heart sing!
The makers of the Binder were quite firm in their instructions, still pasted into the end-paper of the strong boards or “lids”, and advertised cost-effective and specifically-sized binder kits for different publications and types of papers one might like to bind.
Read The Directions.
Directions for Binding.
Place the first paper squarely on one lid of the Binder and mark it opposite each eyelet hole about one half-inch from back of Music and Newspapers and about one-fourth inch from back of Magazines. Punch holes where marked, and mark succeeding numbers by this first one, being careful to place the tops and back of the publications even.
Passing the threads through the papers, and eyelet-holes in the last strips, draw them TIGHTLY, causing the steel strips to close on the papers like a vise, and fasten firmly by “belaying,” as seen in the illustration.
For permanent binding, tear off inside covers and advertisements, placing title page and index in front.
Because the cords (with needles helpfully and permanently attached) are “belayed” on just as you’d lash down a window cord to a cleat with a figure-8 wrap, the system can be opened up and more numbers added over the course of a year.
So. Very. Nifty.
The Fan-Girl Moment
But wait, there’s more!
Inside those lids were twelve issues of The Home: A Fireside Monthly Companion and Guide for the Wife, the Sister, the Mother, and the Daughter. Edited by Mrs. Metta Victoria Victor. (Not the same sort of Victoria-Victor as in the 20th century, though. Metta Victoria is just a fine name for a lady in the late 1850s, and Victor is a sturdy and fortuitous surname to add to it.)
And the very first article in the June issue (No. 6 in Volume 7) was a profile of and interview with none other than Lilly Martin Spencer!
This latter-day, in widening the sphere of woman’s labor, will become historically memorable. The changes of custom, of old and time-honored usage, in regard to woman’s “sphere,” are of a very important character, even if they cease to attract much public attention; and the future historian will have reason to christen this century as the one in which Woman’s Humanity gained its first proper recognition and standing. It is now honorable for her to compete with man in any of the trades for which her strength fits her; it is proper for her to do business in her own name, to hold property, and to sell it; to manage schools, to direct great public and private institutions is her privilege; to practice medicine her conceded province; to become writer, artist, publisher, her right. No other age ever gave her such recognition of equality.
Following that glowing start, the author of the piece (not identified, but possibly Mrs Victor herself) describes my favorite Mrs Spencer’s work in terms I support wholly: “They are fresh, finely-colored, delightful designs, showing something merry in the artist’s conception of life. Indeed, in the field of humorous characterization, she may be pronounced the first artist in America. Her intuitions are sure and strong, and none can work them out with more power and truthfulness.”
I couldn’t agree with the author more.
And of course, Mr Sullivan’s very fine replication of the issue came home with me.
Happy, happy Fan-Girl Day!
Make a Girl-Worthy 19th Century Coral Necklace
In among all the fun of clothing a girl, it’s important to consider some of the elements that are often overlooked, like accessories that include jewelry!
With a bit of minor effort and hand dexterity, you can create a lovely bit of period-appropriate jewelry for your favorite girl (infancy on up) to wear in historic settings.
Coral bead strands show up with fairly good frequency in stories, advertisements, fashion notes, letters, and photographs, as well as in engravings and paintings, and in every case, there seem to be variations that suit a working class setting.
There are some very ornate mid-century pieces, but my focus was on the simple styles well-suited for a child or teen.
Many images show a necklace that’s a bit more generous than a choker, but is definitely not a long dangling strand. I chose a length that would curve neatly around the collarbones, without hanging low or feeling “chokey.”
Natural coral has a lovely heft and coolness to the beads; definitely use semi-precious natural materials, versus anything plastic. The end “drape” of the necklace has everything to do with the finished period look.
To make your own, you’ll need:
Coral Beads: I chose 6mm real coral beads (talk to Elizabeth Aldridge about getting your own strand); original coral strands vary in size, so you could opt for smaller beads or graduated beads, and still be very consistent with originals. Plan to spend about $15 on a strand long enough for a girl’s necklace.
Some coral harvesters use unsustainable practices and have poor track records with human rights. If you can’t get responsibly-sourced natural beads from Elizabeth above (her stock won’t last forever), consider using a natural semi-precious stone round bead, or a ceramic bead, that can mimic the weight, smoothness, and color ranges of natural coral.
For instance, this Etsy seller has smooth red jasper beads in a 6mm size, with a fine hole (they are imported from China, so there may be additional issues there); Fire Mountain also carries deep red jasper beads in 6mm in 4mm sizes.
Dyed red carnelian beads are another option for a mid-century girl’s jewelry; if you’ll recall from Little Women, Amy has a carnelian ring (fiction is not what we base historical impression on, but Louisa May was not making up her details from thin air!) Less-marbled pink rhodochrosite and deep coral pink or red agate are interesting visual choices, too. (Avoid overly-marbled, pearlized, crackled, or matte options for any bead.)
Silk Beading Cord: after looking at recommendations on-line, I settled on Bead Buddy #4 silk bead cord, which has a fine beading “needle” (a fine wire that slipped through the bead holes effortlessly) attached already–handy! I found it at Joann’s, of all places, for about $3.50 a packet. One packet was enough for two necklaces. For the style of necklace I chose, I needed a cord that would knot large enough to hold without sliding into the hole of the bead, so I looked for something that was about the same diameter of the bead’s hole, knowing that a simple overhand knot would then be sized just right. And while it’s described as “cord”, this stuff is very fine. (Silk has the strength and rot-resistance advantage over pearl cotton or other cotton threads.)
Period-Passable Clasps: none of the clasps currently sold market themselves as “antique replica”, so I went on a visual hunt to look at clasp styles on original simple bead strands. Flat “bar” or “box” clasps, and round slide-in clasps both showed up pretty consistently, as well as a few other styles. I found a set of 10 clasps from Hildie & Jo (again, at Joann’s) for under $4, and got four “period unobtrusive” clasps for historic purposes (plus a few that will work for modern use). Avoid lobster, toggle, and magnetic styles–these will not hold up well to the weight of the coral beads, and also look entirely modern. (Fire Mountain Gems and other jewelry suppliers have great options; WalMart does not.)
A Straight Pin: this is my main tool for getting the knots close to each bead without any fussing or cussing. Any straight pin will work, but I found a ball-headed pin worked more comfortably for the knot manipulation, without putting big dents in my fingers.
Some Time: about two hours. If you’re wanting someone else to make one for you, plan to pay them skilled rates on top of materials. While you can make one yourself for under $30, you should expect closer to $60 for someone else to make them for you with the same methods described here.
Key Technique: Individual Knotting
Placing a single, snug overhand knot between each bead gives the whole strand more stability, making it less likely to kink or knot, and should the silk cord break at some point, you’ll lose at most one bead.
The knot between each bead also cushions them from clacking against one another, which can crack or damage them over time. The extra time needed to do the knotting is well worth it!
An overhand knot is the first one most of us learn: it’s the foundation of tying your shoes. The trick to placing them very close to each bead is accomplished by using a pin in the knot’s open area, and gently pulling the free end of the cord as you move the pin snug to the bead. When the knot is snugged to the bead, you can remove the pin and firm up the knot.
Attaching the Clasp
I used the same overhand knot (well, three of them, around the last bit of cord between the clasp and bead knot) to attach the clasps. A bit of modern Fray Check or period gum arabic helps keep the cord ends intact and knots firm over time.
Then I trimmed the excess cord off.
And then two little girls ran off giggling madly into the sunset, wearing their very lovely coral necklaces.
And then the one with pierced ears came back to request some coral drop earrings… for which I’ll share notes another time.
Renewal, Restoration, & Research!
Just a quick note to say HELLO to all the lovely Sewing Academy readers, and give you a peek at my project stack for the coming months!
Lilly Martin Spencer; The Little Navigator
I’ll be dressing my own daughters (and baby grandson, thanks to that old-married Eldest girl of mine!) for the upcoming season’s history tours at the small regional history park where we volunteer, so look for some sew-alongs and tutorials related to dressing infants, pre-teens, teens, and young adult women.
Sewing Academy member P. Thacker, of the Pacific Northwest Contingent, has sent in some great process photos for fitting and completing a lovely corset for a young lady, and that’ll be coming up soon, too.
I have permissions in hand for not one, not two, but THREE amazing and totally bog-common mid-century sunbonnets from private and site collections, to add as project sheets in the Compendium! These will all be for personal use only (courtesy to the owners who have been awfully gracious in allowing us to share them!), and are not to be used for items that will be sold. I’m excited to see what gorgeous sun protection you’ll all make with the project sheets–corded and slatted variations included. They each have features to delight the maker and the wearer.
We’re in the planning stages for workshop weekends in Minnesota and the Pacific Coast in the early fall of 2018, and talking about some fun options in Arkansas or Ohio for 2019.
Great Auntie Maude’s Favorite Cloth Doll will be coming out as a digital-download very soon! The fun everyone is having with instant gratification and the Cloth Girl pattern is encouraging, so we’ll be making more published items available that way.
I’m even working on a digital version of The Dressmaker’s Guide, so it’ll be easier than ever to get hold of your copy, whether you’re US or overseas.
Tiny, Tidy Things (a fun set of pointlessly decorative items from US publications in the early 1860s, including full-size templates, original text, and illustrated instructions for replication) will be available very soon as both a workshop option (we had so much fun with that in Gettysburg!) and as a stand-alone project book in print and digital download.
We’ll be doing a large-scale revamp of The Sewing Academy @ Home forum, with an eye toward making it far more mobile-device-friendly, and will be rolling out some fun group research “dogpiles” and other virtual activities you’ll want to read.
Basically: 2018 promises to be a busy year of renewal, restoration, and fresh research to enhance our appreciation of the mid-19th century! I’m glad you’re along for the ride, and can’t wait to see what we all do together!
Share the SA
